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Poached Quince Dessert

Feb 25, 2020 · 1 Comment

Tasty quince dessert, made by poaching quinces until perfect reduction and softness of fruit are achieved. The resulting dessert (a condiment too!) is best described as quinces in simple syrup. Similar to Turkish ayva tatlisi, and Italian frutta sciroppata, this dessert sauce is great by itself or as a topping.

Poached Quince Dessert

There was a time when upon opening a wardrobe or glancing at a window seal, your eyes were met with an object so yellow and aromatic it pulled you straight into now. The past was spent, and the future delegated to some other latitude while you stood face to face with the misshapen apple, the yellowest of pears, mysterious and sweet-smelling quince.

Today we are taking that quince for consumption.

This dessert is unique. The closest I can do is to get you to think of it as a rich man’s version of canned fruit if canned fruit was harder and sweeter, and the sauce was thicker and also sweeter.

The original name for this type of dessert is slatko, meaning sweet. 'Slatko' is an adjective except in this case when it transforms into a noun. But how do I name our slatko od dunja in English? I wanted to be more precise than calling it 'the quince sweet.'

In today's sugar-vary environment, how do I write about, or name the dessert based heavily on simple syrup, even when it's made with something as beautiful, as aromatic, and as culturally significant to the Balkans as a quince?

I went with the poached quince dessert. Think of it as a Balkan version of the Italian frutta sciroppata or Turkish ayva tatlisi.

'Fruit in syrup' suggested my reader Sabrina.

Quince Significance in the Balkans

Ottomans brought the quince to the Balkans. Immediately upon coming here the quince took on a romantic hue. It grabbed a hold of lore and music and achieved solid cultural significance.

There is something about the quince. Heavy. Hard. Tart. Beautiful. It doesn't like that you try to consume it raw. You may want to, but even when ripe it tastes unripe. You might handle a slice or two, but it’ll never let you finish it whole.

The quince insists on preparation. It insists on patience. It’s worth the wait.

Regrettably, people consume less of them today than ever before. For the generation of our grandmothers it was unthinkable not to have a few young quinces strategically placed around the home from where they'd expel their magical aroma as they ripened.

Back in the day when you visited a friend or a neighbor in Serbia the first thing they brought you was a small bowl of poached quinces in simple syrup, along a glass of water.

I thought about the meaning behind this kind gesture and distances come to mind. If you lived in a village then, it was a trek to reach your neighbor’s house. Quince syrup offered a perfectly timed sugar jolt to revive your energy until dinner.

Meanwhile, we love the idea of the quince, but only the idea. Give us something easy to make, we say.

How to Make Poached Quince Dessert

When you head over to the market to get the quinces (sometime between October and December, during their season), always get one or two more than you think you’ll need.

Bruises on the outside of the fruit are not an indication of it going bad, or being ripe on the inside. In reality, a quince may trick you. It may be perfectly yellow and hard on the outside, but as you cut it you may discover bruises on the inside. Don’t use those.

Core it and peel like you would an apple. But be careful! It’s tough. (Imagine peeling a watermelon.) There is no use being speedy lest you cut your finger. The quince will not let you handle it absentmindedly.

This quince recipe is even simpler than the strawberry syrup as there is no marinating.

But it’s helpful if you get a large pot with water with sugar and lemon ready before you start peeling. Quinces brown easily. The best way to prevent this is to either smear pieces with lemon juice, or to drop them into the pot, right as you’re cutting them.

As mentioned we mostly prepared the strawberry syrup in my family. Grandmother loved strawberries, and she was the one who prepared it for dessert, and as a condiment for winter. (Quince dessert is equally good for conserving. Method is the same - just get more quinces, sterilize jars, and make a larger batch.)

But when I was testing the recipe for quince dessert, suddenly the old and tried recipe seemed basic. So I overcomplicated it. I first made the simple syrup, then added the quinces in. This resulted in quinces remaining hard while the syrup turned to something you'd use for hair removal. Lesson? Simple does it!

Quinces don’t have to fall apart, but the pieces do need to soften the way we need that aroma of theirs. If you don't like chunks, grate them.

It couldn’t be easier from here.

Bring to a boil on medium, and then lower the heat. Simmer for an hour or so, removing the foam that forms on top. You won’t be able to remove all of it as the syrup frequently bubbles up. Get as much as you can and don’t worry about the rest.

Cooking may take you an hour or an hour and fifteen minutes. Rely more on the spoon than the clock. You’re looking for the moment when, upon drawing a line on the bottom of the pot with your spoon, the quince syrup separates easily.

As they cook, quinces will change their color to dark orange (burgundy almost). Forty-ish minutes in, the aroma will intoxicate you.

If you want a thinner syrup consistency, use more water and grate quinces. This is a better method if you plan to conserve them.

Other Quince Recipes

There are a few other quince delicacies.

There is, of course, the Turkish ayva tatlisi.
You make ayva tatlisi similarly to quince dessert by cooking quince halves in simple syrup, and then topping them with cream made from the milk of a water buffalo.
Italian frutta sciroppata (fruit syrup).
Delicious Italian version of our recipe, although in syrup thickness it seems to be somewhere between canned fruit and simple syrup.
A type of tufahije with quinces exists too.
Here quinces exchange the poached, walnut apples, but preparation usually calls for an additional oven bake, something that may or may not happen with regular stuffed apples.
A simple jam tart.
Chef and blogger extraordinaire David Lebovitz has created a perfect tart to use the quince jam with. And if you ever wondered how to make the perfect tart crust, this recipe is it.
Baked quinces.
Some people prefer no fuss recipes, especially when a new food is introduced. If this is you, baked quince is right up your alley.
Quince juice? Oh yes!
For those of us who like to quench our thirst with unusual drinks (juniper berry juice anyone?), there is always the quince juice.
Maybe you’ve heard of kitnikez?
It's a quince jelly from Serbia's Vojvodina province. Kitnikez probably originates from Austria-Hungary as it’s a local pronunciation of German for quitttenkäse, or 'quince cheese. Elsewhere it goes under membrillo.

Poached Quince Dessert

Aida

Tasty quince dessert (slatko od dunja) made by poaching quinces until perfect reduction and softness of fruit are achieved. The resulting dessert (a condiment too!) is best described as quinces in simple syrup.

5 from 1 vote

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Prep Time 15

Cook Time 1 15

Ingredients

Instructions

In a large pot combine sugar, water and lemon juice.
One by one, peel and dice quinces. To prevent browning, add batches of diced quinces to the pot as soon as you dice them. Stir until integrated.
Bring to a boil on high, then bring the temperature down to low. Simmer for 60-75 minutes.* Instead of stirring carefully shake the pot every now and then.
As the foam starts to form on top of the quince syrup, remove as much as you can with a spoon.**
About 20 minutes before quince dessert is done heat oven to 390°F (200°C). Wash jars thoroughly with detergent, rinse and dry them. (If using walnuts, this is also the time to put them in the syrup.)
Place jars on a baking sheet and heat them for 15 minutes in the oven. (This will sterilize them.)
To check quince syrup for done-ness draw a line on the bottom of the pot with a spatula. Dessert is finished when the syrup is separating nicely (it'll be the consistency of honey, or lighter).
Carefully transfer the quince dessert into sterilized jars. Close jars and flip them until the jars and dessert cool down.
Serve with coffee, water or tea.

Notes

*You're better off trusting your spoon than the clock here. As soon as you can draw a line on the bottom of the pot and it separates nicely the dessert is finished. If you like it less thick, you can turn it off sooner, or use a little more water than recommended.

**The syrup will bubble up frequently. Remove as much foam as you can and don't worry about the rest.

Unopened jars of quince dessert will last a few months in a dark, cool place. Once you open a jar, transfer it to the fridge.

Tried this recipe?Let us know how it was!

Veal Shank Roast (Teleća Koljenica)

Feb 4, 2020 · 5 Comments

We make a lot of veal in the winter, and this veal shank roast (koljenica) is often on our dinner table. Soft, succulent fore shank meat has a deep, satisfying, hearty flavor you’ll want to eat for days in a row.

Veal Shank Roast

Every large meal gathering in our extended family is accompanied by a succulent, large roast.

We’re not original in this way. A good roast brings up memories for most people. Families around the world gather at the dining room table, at least during the holidays. Turkey, beef or chicken matters little. It’s about that sit down, about conversation and good food.

And about waiting for the designated carver who has the most important job.

(This is usually the most senior male in the family. It's the same across continents. Is it a patriarchal hand me down from an earlier era? Or a conciliatory prize for the man as the woman chose the right cut, marinated that sucker and roasted it to perfection?)

The rest of us watch the carver with focus, attention and hankering, hoping our piece will be just right. Just the right amount of fat, the right amount of meat, the right amount of yum, just the right size.

Wrong piece can start a war.

Roast for me brings up images of a hefty cherry wood, oval, dining room table covered with a snow white, crisp tablecloth with a few embroidered details in blue or pink. Table is set with china and silk napkins, which are surrounded by crystal glasses and much cutlery. The throne of the table is in the middle, where a large pan rests enclosed by tens of bowls and plates filled with different sides. In the pan is a luscious veal roast which any meat aficionado would admire with devotion reserved for fetishes.

You see, there is something grown up - a very satisfying feeling - about knowing how to make a perfect roast. And I'll teach you how.

What is veal shank?

Shank is the portion of a cow’s leg between the knee and where the limb attaches to the body. (Look at the red areas in the diagram below.)

This positioning is what gives shank its name in Bosnian (Croatian/ Serbian); shank is known as koljenica (koljeno being the knee). Therefore koljenica (or shank) refers to the area around the knee.

When it comes to veal, medallions and under the shoulder blade are generally the most popular cuts.

Medallions top the list due to their tenderness. A well made veal medallion will evoke meat cravings you've never had in your life. Under the shoulder blade (veal) is also well respected as it's a solid piece of meat for roast and is comparable to any good beef cut.

Veal shank often gets shafted in the process, not because of the taste, but because most people don't know how to prepare it well.

There are two types of shanks: fore and hind.

Fore shank refers to the front leg shanks. It is located underneath the piece of meat we use for brisket. Fore shanks are larger, meatier, and when done the right way, softer. When buying shank for a roast always make sure you’re getting the fore shank.
Hind shank refers to the back leg shanks. They’re smaller and located underneath the area we refer to as round. While you’re welcome to roast a hind shank, you’re better off using it to make bone broth.

What does it look like?

If you take a look at the photo below (marinated shank in the pan), you’ll see what veal shank looks like uncooked. However, imagine it in one thick, long piece that's not been cut.

Veal shank is shaped kind of like a sensual thigh. Thick on top, thinning out as it reaches bottom. A bone runs through the entire piece.

The shank is pink in color with some redder areas inside the cut, and white areas where the fats and bone are. In color it is similar to the pork shank. However, you can differentiate these two by shape. Pork shank is short and stocky, while veal shank is elongated.

Veal shank weighs between 3 and 6 pounds (from 1.5 to 3kg). Make note of how much your shank weighs as the weight is a deciding factor in roasting length.

What dishes can you make with this meat?

While veal shank is not traditional to American cuisine, this cut is well known and frequently prepared internationally. Three famous veal shank dishes come to us from Italy, the Philippines and the Balkans.

Osso Buco (Ossobuco, or Milanese) is the best known veal shank dish. It hails from the Lombardy region in Italy. Veal shank is cross cut into several 2-3 inch pieces where the bone is left visible in the middle of the meat. (In fact, osso buco means “bone with a hole” making the marrow in the bone focal point of this delicacy.) These cuts are braised with vegetables, broth and vine until perfectly simmered. Ossobuco is served over pasta or polenta.
The Philippines give us another great veal shank dish, a shank stew called Bulalo. Bulalo is made by stewing shank and vegetables for a while. Cabbage and corn take the center stage in most Bulalo recipes. As the shank stew is cooked a long time it allows for perfect veal shank broth to form, further enriched with tender meat, and (unusual for soup and stew) corn on the cob.
Finally there is koljenica, or veal shank roast we’re doing today. A tender roast with meat that falls of the bone is great for any occasion. For directions read below.

How to make bone broth?

Bone broth made from veal shank is considered a delicacy and medicine. (Think chicken broth on steroids.)

A delicacy because it is flavorful and versatile. In taste, veal bone broth is stronger than chicken soup, but not so strong to leave you with a “I’ve just been punched in the stomach” feeling some broths do. In fact, this clear broth is light enough to leave its mark on cooking (as a foundation for soups, stews and rice), while it doesn’t overpower.

And it's considered medicine because the marrow is a great source of protein and nutrients. It's high in collagen, vitamins and minerals. Bone marrow is also said to be helpful in healing everything from cold to osteoarthritis.

In the Balkans bone broth, and especially veal shank bone broth (temeljac od koljenice), is widely used in cooking in an effort to strengthen the immune system. Mothers of young children swear by it. They use bone broth as a base for most food they prepare for their kids. (My father, who was a surgeon, used to urge me to eat it: "Aida, if you'd only eat more of this. You have no idea how good it is for a woman's health.")

All of us from my sister, mom, to my grandmothers have been brought up on bone broth. It's quite possible bone broth is the reason I was able to survive malnutrition that came later, during the war years (when I was 9, 10), and escape relatively unaffected by it.

Recipe Notes

Ask the butcher for a nice piece of veal shank and ask they cut it into 3-4 pieces. (You can use either fore or hind shank for the broth.) Use 1-2 pieces of shank per one 5-6 quart pot. (Freeze the remaining shank for another batch of broth.) Add celery, carrots, and onion to the pot with shank and fill the rest with water. (You can use a slow cooker if you wish.) Bring ingredients to a boil, then remove foam that forms on top.
Bring temperature down to lowest and cook several hours (at least 3, but you can go as long as 12*). Fifteen minutes before you turn the stove off add a few handfuls of fresh parsley.
Strain broth into a different pot making sure you are keeping all the gelatinous pieces that formed, and scrape all the bone marrow from inside and around the bone as well. These pieces are extremely beneficial and healthy for consumption. Discard vegetables and bones. Use meat for a different dish.
Transfer bone broth to several jars or plastic containers and freeze what you won’t immediately use. When cooled, bone broth looks like a gel. Remove the layer of fat which will form on top before warming the broth up and using it for your dish (or consuming as is). (This particular fat doesn't taste good at all.)

*While some advocate longer simmer times, I make mine in about 3 hours. You can go as long as 12. However, the longer you go, the more intense the taste. This means longer cooking times will later require you to water down the broth before using it.

Please that: if you are making broth, use a brand new shank, not the leftovers. (Do not use leftover bones for bone broth, or cook the broth and then try to roast it.)

Method Notes

This recipe for veal shank starts with a good, long marinade.

If you're a marinade expert you're welcome to experiment. But I went the classic Balkan marinade route: spices, mustard and oil. The best method is if you rub these generously into the meat. (Shank should almost be divided in 4-5 pieces, but not all the way through, as you can see on photo above.) Afterwards, wrap meat in saran wrap and leave it in the fridge overnight.

The following day transfer the shank into a well-oiled roasting pan and cover it with foil. Pierce foil with a toothpick or fork in several places so some of the heat can escape during roasting. Throw the pan into a super hot oven. You'll roast it on 480°F (250°C) until the last 15-20 minutes when you'll take the foil off and lower.

To achieve the right, fall of the bone effect, any type of veal roast should be roasted based on its weight. The formula is the same as for the regular veal roast: 1 hour of roasting per 2 lbs (1kg) of meat. (For example, if you have 3 lbs of meat you'll roast it for 1.5 hours.) If you roast your meat based on this formula you'll never again have to fear veal that's overly done, or not done enough.

Halfway through the roasting take the pan out and carefully remove the foil. Flip the meat around, pour the juices that are in the pan over it, cover with foil again and return to oven. Continue roasting, but remember to take the foil off for the last 15 minutes of roasting and to lower the temperature to 390°F (200°C). This will form that perfectly juicy yet crispy skin.

Additional Information

Vegetables. Great vegetables to make with this roast are potatoes and carrots. However, any root vegetables will do. You can make the veggies separately or with the roast. If you want to bake vegetables with the roast, peel, cut and throw them in when you remove the foil, and keep them in the pan another 15 -20 minutes after the meat is finished. Softer veggies like peppers need less time.
Rice. This roast produces just enough juice to drip over rice. Combined, this rice, meat and juice flavor is unbeatable.
Mashed potatoes. Like veal rump medallions, veal shank is perfect over mashed potatoes.
Polenta. Serve over polenta for a unique taste.
Serve as a salad. Exchange your regular chicken or steak with veal shank. In this case, I recommend you use shank leftovers that have been in the fridge overnight. Warm veal shank is unbelievably great, but so is the cold one from the fridge with a little bit of salt on top.
Use as sandwich meat.

In the end, it doesn't matter how you decide to consume it. What you'll find is that even if you're ordinarily not a meat person you'll like the taste of veal shank.

Really, really like it.

Veal Shank Roast

Aida

Veal shank roast is a classic roast perfect for a family gathering. Soft, succulent fore shank meat is a hearty protein treat you’ll want to make over and over.

5 from 1 vote

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Servings -8